Chef Koga bills his fare as “novel yet nostalgic yoshoku”. This means he incorporates modern techniques into old-school methods to pursue new directions in flavour. Exhibit A is Koga’s use of a decompression cooker. Vegetables are fresh and seafood moist, permeated with umami. Time and effort are spent preparing the demiglace sauce to bring out its body. The skills of an artisan in step with his times come to life in his cuisine.