With his restaurant, the chef depicts a local unassuming sushi shop. The small counter fosters an air of kinship, as does the friendly service. His conviction shows in the meticulous care he pours into each item. Dishes are not only salted, marinated and simmered, they are prepared with knife techniques so practiced as to seem effortless, then formed by hand to finish. An omakase set menu with snacks is on offer, but the focus here is on nigiri sushi, what a sushi shop originally was.