Akira Watanabe inherited old-school sushi traditions but learned from his mentor the spirit of adding his own novel spin. Vinegared sushi rice is regarded as the most important component of great sushi, and Watanabe’s evolved over time through trial and error. The chef displays judgment and skill as he serves gizzard shad first, and his simmered conger eel and kurakake egg (egg straddling the rice like a saddle) reflect his personality. He confides that he tries to ‘investigate the old and understand the new’.