Ingredients are displayed behind a glass case, as in a sushi shop. Yosuke Miura, the third-generation owner-chef, listens to his customer’s order and immediately begins moulding it by hand. Before taking over the reins here, he was a flautist. In classical music, you play what’s written on the music sheet. Onigiri is the same, says Miura; you don’t try to do something new. Yadoroku is a score handed down from his grandmother, one which he will reproduce faithfully.