This really does feel like a tucked away Japanese residence – the kimono-clad hostess walks you through the garden into the dining room, which has just 12 seats at a cypress counter. The Japanese chef makes Edomae sushi with rice dressed in red vinegar. About a third of the items on the 20-course dinner menu are cooked, the highlight being the buttery monkfish liver that features in different courses. The tamagoyaki is the perfect finish.