Run by fourth-generation owners, this 70-plus-year-old family business is usually full of regulars. The dining room is plainly furnished, but customers don’t come for the ambiance, but the authentic Jiangzhe classics such as pork trotter aspic, drunken chicken and stir-fried swamp eel. Steamed-to-order xiao long bao boast thin, translucent skin and soupy pork filling. The take-out counter offers quick service for those on the go.