In a small, romantic boutique hotel, this is a deliciously old-school restaurant that is coming into its own with ambitious cuisine. This should be no surprise, as the chef boasts a background in some esteemed and globally acclaimed kitchens. Guests are invited to create their own prix-fixe menu by selecting four to five dishes from a variety of categories, such as garden, ocean or farm (some beef comes from a northern California ranch). This might yield a meal that begins with a refreshing gazpacho made from delicately spiced melon with basil blossom and a bit of smoky fried shrimp. Masterful desserts have included a brown-butter sponge cake with dense clotted cream and marinated strawberries. Be sure to sample the owner’s own wine label, Coqueliquot, available in a range of styles.