Chef Srijith Gopinathan’s return to San Francisco’s dining scene is a love letter to the cuisine of his home state of Kerala, on the southwestern coast of India—even the name refers to the dried coconut meat common in the cooking there. The swanky space is lush and well-lit, seemingly tailor-made to draw in influencers, though certain rustic dishes, like a shell-on Konkan crab curry featuring a sticky sauce made with tamarind, dried chiles and shallot, make dressy attire a risky, albeit delicious, proposition. The sizable menu is geared towards sharing, though the modest portions encourage enthusiastic ordering, from a “palette” of assorted brightly flavored chutneys with pappadom, to a seriously aromatic fried chicken dish inspired by a favorite street food.