Though its name comes from an obscure ancient Syrian word for "pasta," this welcoming, easygoing retreat draws in a lively crowd with Italian cooking that's appealingly modern. Chef Daniel Evers employs a confidently uncomplicated approach, bringing a light touch to classic flavors and allowing simplicity to shine.The first half of the streamlined menu highlights buoyantly fresh seafood in the form of crudo, as in dayboat scallops accented with preserved lemon and sea beans. To follow, house-made pastas that show a skillful hand, like wavy mafaldine matched with pecorino and egg; or artfully stuffed cappelletti with winter squash. An affogato of fior di latte gelato and brown butter crisp makes for a fittingly unfussy finale.