Oribe stoneware and distinctive Japanese-style paintings give presence to the interior. Crockery is produced by a potter with whom the owner-chef has cultivated a relationship. Recycled materials and earthen walls give the space a rough-hewn feel and a folk-art charm. Two kinds of soba are prepared: fine-ground seiro soba and coarse-ground inaka soba. Both are rolled to the same thickness. At lunchtime, customers start queuing in front of this popular shop before it opens. ‘Soba trays’ of soba with snacks are available with reservations.