Sabah, a staple of Wan Chai’s restaurant scene for 18 years, shuttered its doors in 2019 before reopening here with the same kitchen team. Both the room and the menu are downsized, but signatures like bak kut teh, beef rendang, and seafood laksa remain, tasting just like before. Boneless Hainan chicken rice boasts bouncy skin and velvety juicy flesh. Even the trio of dips and pearl rice are also hard to find fault with.