There comes a point when a pared-down style jumps from being easy-to-miss and becomes hard-to-forget. When a lack of any FOH staff means the service is playfully all-hands-on-deck. When the explicit rap music reflects the chefs’ ethos, going well beyond laissez-faire to the point of “we don’t give a damn.” You probably won’t either once you taste the food. The welcome cocktail and canape may be a summery concoction of watermelon and Pastis paired with a watermelon-poached oyster. Medallions of quail are dusted with jerk seasoning and plated with onion rings and candied guava for a stimulating combination of flavors, while tender beef loin is plated with a clever raspberry remoulade and accompanied by a powdered mustard-dusted milk bun, inviting diners to make a sandwich.