Dim yellow lights, a nostalgic décor, 1930s memorabilia, golden oldies courtesy of singers in qipao... but surprisingly the ambiance doesn’t steal the show. One highlight of the fish-heavy menu is crabs as the owner picks the best ones from his own farm; crabmeat and roe on rice is unmissable. Fried shredded finless eel with water bamboo affords a nice contrast of textures, while glutinous rice ball in distillers grain sweet soup is good to share.