This smart, nautically themed neighbourhood restaurant is doing a fantastic job of championing the best of Scottish seafood. Start with a glass of champagne from the trolley and snacks such as oysters, prawn tacos or crispy whitebait. As the meal proper begins, keep an eye out for the occasional Asian touch – ranging from tandoori butter to a miso glaze – and their speciality fish cooked on the bone. Across the menu, one thing is clear: this kitchen knows how to cook fish with real skill.