Nestled next door to Atelier Crenn, this offshoot proposes a scaled-down version of the celebrated flagship’s sybaritic pescatarian degustation, offered for a (slightly) smaller price tag. Seated at a sleek marble countertop, six select diners per evening receive a custom menu, plated right before their eyes by skillful members of the kitchen team. The experience begins promptly at 4:30 with a Champagne toast, then proceeds at a brisk clip from there, and though some will balk at the start time, others may well jump at the opportunity for an early bird special in such a ritzy locale. Guests must select from a choice of two beverage pairings when making their reservation; once the meal begins, indulgence is all that remains to be considered.