There’s nothing like a discreet entrance to raise expectations—and Hirohisa is nicely concealed on Thompson Street. When you do find it, you enter into a stylish and beautifully understated room. There are tables and dining a la carte is an option, but it’s so much more satisfying to sit at the counter for the omakase. The menu is structured as a kaiseki experience. Two things will quickly become clear: the ingredients are exceptional and the team's technical skills are considerable. This is food that is as rewarding to eat as it is restorative. Standouts include a chilled eggplant composition with Japanese abalone to mark the season. The meal concludes with a satisfying pot of rice, dressed with the likes of diced squid and tomatoes or salmon belly and ikura.