With its open kitchen, sharing plates, faux-industrial design and bounty of natural wines, there's something incredibly current about Erst. It's truly a restaurant for our times, but cooking like this would be a joy in any era. The underlying themes across the menu are great value and bright, punchy flavours; make sure you start with one of the freshly charred flatbreads, which might come topped with sweet Vesuvio tomatoes. The cuttlefish risotto is terrific too, offering impressive depth of flavour. The friendly team provide natural, attentive service.