The sensibilities of owner-chef live in every item of the inventive menu. In the noodles with duck and Kujo spring onion, truffles replace the sansho, enhancing the aroma. The fare reflects the arrival of each season without show or fanfare. An appetiser of root vegetables enrobed in yuba ankake sauce, for example, represents autumn leaves. One nice touch is that portions are adjusted and divided according to each diner’s preferences.