Tucked away in the city centre, this friendly little bistro offers a lovely atmosphere courtesy of its combination of on-view kitchen, exposed brick walls and slightly retro-style furniture – the polite, efficient team play their part too. The unpretentious, flavour-focused cooking has its roots in tradition but isn’t afraid of introducing a playful edge, exemplified by the rightly popular duck confit ‘doughnuts’ served with an excellent demi-glace sauce.