Chef-owner Jinda is a specialist in somtum dishes. She first plied her trade back in 1974 in the local university before moving downtown. The Isan-style spicy fish maw with bamboo shoot salad has a nice balance of herbs and its powerful aroma is punctuated by the intensity of the Tiliacora juice. The signature, somtum with crispy catfish, dispenses an impressive tang. Whether you like it spicy or mild, they’ll make it just right for you.