The owner had been selling fried eel and squid for ages before he started serving migao quite by chance in 1985. Unexpectedly, his sticky rice topped with braised pork, fish floss and peanut soon became more popular than his original score – and he has focused on migao and sishen herbal soup ever since. The gravy on the migao boasts a peppery aroma to match the rich, deep flavours. The food tends to sell out by the afternoon, so it's best to go early.