By the fading sign and vintage enamelware, it’s not hard to believe this noodle shop opened its doors 40 years ago. It focuses on mee sua gou – a wheat vermicelli soup of porridge consistency. Feel free to jazz it up with toppings like vinegar pork, pork intestine or oyster. Suck up the broth with a fried dough stick. Sautéed pork liver is another must-try: lightly coated in sweet potato starch, the liver has a burnt crust and a juicy centre.