It is easy to fall for the charms and delights of this French bistro. The narrow space is dressed in well-worn wood, a lovely bar and bookshelves along the back walls. The bartenders are veterans, shaking and stirring with impressive speed. But what really makes this a frequent favorite is the food, which has all the joys and reflexes of a chef cooking in their own home. Smart, seasonal and astutely seasoned, the cooking eschews fuss and favors boldness. Ease into dinner with a round of oysters or a light bite of pickled shrimp with aioli, basil and saltines. After, a swirled, green garlic roll with escargot is a total powerhouse, while grilled quail with tzatziki feels like the best backyard barbecue. A slice of chocolate cake or another drink? Sure, why not?