Hidden away in industrial Tin City, Chef Ricky Odbert has, for many years now, quietly and confidently cooked like few others in the region. Dry-aged fish and meats, seasonal produce and delicious sauces come together in a breezy space with soaring ceilings, charcoal-tinted walls, metal edges and a stunning wood counter that wraps around the kitchen. It’s a fitting stage for food that eats as beautifully as it looks. Recent highlights include aged black cod poached in wagyu tallow, or the chawanmushi made with smoked pork broth and with a clam emulsion mixed with trout roe. Desserts, like barley koji ice cream with whipped miso, are particularly exceptional and balance sweet and savory. A highly selective wine list brings small producers under the spotlight.