With tables huddled close, the ceiling low and the room packed, everyone looks when a pithivier emerges from the kitchen. Ornately carved, perfectly bronzed and flaky, and layered with precision, this French throwback tells you everything you need to know about Alexia and Ronan Duchêne’s West Village bijou. Rich, robust cooking celebrates French excellence of yesteryear with foie gras terrines and vin jaune sauces prepared with substance and astuteness. A wonderful, curved bar in the front room welcomes walk-ins. Wine lovers will not want for choice, as the serious list is deep and carefully curated.