A taste of the big city in Milan’s southwest inner periphery: Altatto brings a fully vegetarian cuisine built on contemporary ideas, modern techniques, and flavors that alternate between bright citrus accents and softer, more captivating tones. A prime example is the mascarpone risotto with celeriac base and walnuts, intense and perfectly balanced. The space, minimal and clean-lined, finds warmth in an informal, jovial service that makes the overall experience all the more welcoming.