Fans of Trullo in Islington will be pleased to know that chef and co-owner Conor Gadd has opened his own Italian restaurant, this time in the more central and tourist-centric surroundings of Covent Garden. This space is bigger and more elegant, with high ceilings and a terrace that makes the most of the secluded courtyard in which it’s located. ‘Burro’ means butter – and plenty of it is used to cook the lovely crisp vitello. Fried artichoke with bottarga is a great way to start; fettucine with duck and porcini ragu is the pick of the pasta; and it’s hard to see beyond the tiramisu doughnuts for dessert.