In the middle of an ersatz-industrial space sits a horseshoe-shaped counter with 18 seats, allowing diners to see ‘behind’ the scenes. Every seat has a view of the chefs in action and it is they who serve the dishes and explain their construction and make-up with palpable pride. The surprise seasonal menu consists of around 10 contrasting and creative courses. The focus is on seafood and dishes could include brill with black pudding, Orkney scallops with smoked kipper cream, and delicious Sicilian red prawns. As everyone is served together, it’s important to arrive on time.