A charming kappo on the banks of the Takase River. The chef’s aim is to create a restaurant that he himself would frequent, so let’s peruse the menu and gauge his tastes. His strong points are the inventiveness and patience he pours into his creations, such as salad dressed with heshiko (mackerel pickled in rice-bran paste). A native of Toyama, the chef serves seafood from Toyama Bay. Items such as firefly squid, glass shrimp and buri arrive in season. And don’t forget the regional sakes.