ESSE – meaning ‘to be’ or ‘to exist’ – sits within an 1895 warehouse and comes from locally known Californian chef Matt Orlando. The hangar-like space takes in terrazzo flooring, graffitied walls and an open kitchen, while moody lighting, a US rap soundtrack and jars of fermenting produce complete the picture. Seasonal dishes showcase produce sourced from farms that follow organic, regenerative practices, and utilise as many parts as possible of every ingredient. Highlights include the fermented potato bread and the likes of Norwegian scallop with lactic pumpkin seed butter, hazelnut and Japanese quince.