Together with his tight-knit team, Chef/owner Christopher Barnum-Dann brings unusual warmth to this intimate setting. His enthusiasm is instantly palpable as he happily explains his inspiration behind particular dishes and even solicits feedback. This is especially true for diners who sit at the spacious counter.The cooking has a clean, modern simplicity, and its commitment to carefully sourced ingredients is thoroughly Californian. It also offers no shortage of personality, combining flavors while also drawing from various global cuisines. Whimsy is a common thread throughout, as in a gutsy potato rosti piped with uni mousse and "The Dish That Made Us," a single octopus tentacle atop polenta with preserved lemon and a brown butter sauce.