Jonathan Waxman’s West Village stalwart occupies a former garage whose doors can be flung open in the summer to bring the outside in. On colder days, the wood-burning oven in the open kitchen provides a focal point in what is a fairly utilitarian space, but one with an appealingly laid-back feel, which is helped along by confident service and a plethora of regulars. The kitchen offers something for everyone, with many of the dishes big enough to share. Pasta mains come with a languid muscularity while, for many, the roast chicken is a must. There are unexpected surprises: those who shudder at the mere existence of kale will find that-with the addition of pecorino, breadcrumbs and anchovies-it can be transformed into something quite sublime.
- Les inspecteurs du guide MICHELIN