Three decades in, longtime pastry chef Ron Paprocki now runs the show at this tried-and-true institution. With just the right amount of glamour, the warmly lit space is helmed by a personable team who makes every diner feel welcomed.Gotham exudes old-school New York, as does the classic American cooking with Continental accents. Though far from avant-garde, beloved fixtures like tuna tartare, pâté en croute or roasted rack of lamb will never go out of style. The well-executed dishes showcase quality ingredients and eschew trendy presentations—and their size bears witness to the largesse of the kitchen. Rhubarb mille-feuille, layered with house-made whipped ricotta and rhubarb roasted, stewed, and prepared in thin chips, is a solid finale.